Just Another Day In Paradise...Or Several - Summer 2012 in Review

With the computer out of commission and my patience entirely too small to blog via iPhone, I hadn't realized how long it has been since I've written anything!

It was another interesting summer, as usual, with crazy things happening in the Park, in town and in general. But thankfully the priority to make sure there is time for fun has still been given it's proper space, in part due to the fact that I seem to have forgotten that I had not used a good majority of my vacation time, which resets for the year on the anniversary date of when I started working full time, which is the end of August. Thus, I ended up with many long weekends in July and August. In fact, I'm pretty sure I didn't work a full week from mid-July until Labor Day weekend, darn it!. I suggested that this had worked out very well and that I might just plan on using my vacation days this way next summer, but that idea was quickly shot down by everyone else in the office who have been answering my phone during my seemingly endless string of long weekends. Oh well, it was nice while it lasted!

Here's a quick photo summary so far, with a little commentary thrown in for good measure.......

It was ENTIRELY too hot last summer! While it definitely can get a little toasty in Gardiner and Mammoth during the summer, this picture can explain the difference this year as it was taken on June 23. On that same date last year, we were cheering because summer had finally shown up at all and the high was about 80......

 Sunset over central Yellowstone, near Gibbon Falls

 

Gibbon Falls sunset looking the other direction 

Bannack ghost town in SW Montana - it was the first territorial capitol of MT and has been preserved 

and restored as a State Park.

 

Ibex cabin in somewhat south central Montana - a great weekend with 4 people, 2 hyper dogs and a whole lot of board and lawn games, aka the "Ibex Olympics"

 

 

View towards Yankee Jim Canyon from Old Yellowstone Trail north of Gardiner, MT

 

Winter 2011/12 in a Nutshell

The Old Faithful Snow Lodge closed on Sunday, Mammoth yesterday, the exodus of snowcoaches coaches from Old Faithful was the sight of the morning...the signs that another long and unpredictable Yellowstone winter has come to an end.

We saw crazy road closures (boulders in the road, snow drifts as tall as me), no snow followed by touch followed again by none. We saw plenty of animals, heard plenty more stories, and complained just as much as usual when it wasn't snowing enough or when it was snowing too much, whichever that particular day called for. The snowcoaches got stuck, they broke down, people crashed snowmobiles and plenty of people hit the ground while learning to cross country ski. Most importantly, we made it through. All in all, another winter season to be thankful for!

Here is my winter in it's photographic nutshell...

America's Best Idea - The Tauck Winter in Yellowstone Event

No, of course Tauck's "Winter in Yellowstone" Event was not America's best idea, but it was set around the idea of what was.....America's National Parks, as showcased by the 2009 Ken Burns/Dayton Duncan documentary "The National Parks: America's Best Idea".

 As a Group Sales Rep for Xanterra, the lodging concessionaire for Yellowstone National Park, my job primarily revolves around a lot of data entry and answering questions - taking requests, building bookings, entering rooming lists and helping tour operators understand the complexities of working with not just a National Park, but a pretty large and varied one. While I definitely have the freedom to explore and expand within those confines, there are always exactly that: confines. It has been quite an experience in learning and growing up to be able to realize what is my job and when to do it, and what is not my job and when to shut up and leave it to those actually responsible for that task or area. Well, this winter I've had the opportunity to do something different...of course still within my realm of responsibility but with quite a bit more variety than I usually see.

 About 2 years ago, Tauck (one of the largest and best known tour companies in the US) partnered with Ken Burns and Dayton Duncan to launch a series of new tours based around some of their best known documentaries (The National Parks, The Civil War, Jazz etc..) and each new tour series was to include a "Hosted by Ken Burns" Event to kick of the series. Well, "Winter in Yellowstone" was a top priority for Mr Burns and Mr Duncan, so Winter in Yellowstone it was to be. While putting this together definitely included all of the normal aspects of my job, it also allowed me the opportunity to think outside the box, work with other departments, actually assist in the execution of the plans rather than just making them and hoping for the best. It was the perfect blend of event planning and group management, probably a taste of what would be my ideal job.

 That said, don't think that it was all work and no play! The cornerstone of the event, which took place Jan 7-14, was the series of tours in the park with both our guides and the Yellowstone Association as well as the presentations by various guests speakers on the parks geology, history, wildlife etc. The event also included a keynote address by Dayton Duncan (originally planned to be Ken Burns but he was unable to attend due to medical issues). Other speakers included wildlife cinematographer Bob Landis, animal behavior and tracking expert Jim Halfpenny, and Gerard Baker, the first Native American National Park Service Superintendent (Mt Rushmore). I am so thankful to have had the opportunity to visit Old Faithful for the keynote event and dinner. This special and private event filled the Old Faithful Snow Lodge for a night, as well as allowed for us to enjoy the keynote by Mr Duncan in the auditorium of the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center - something the National Park Service had not previously allowed for anyone else to do. While of course there was a hint of disappointment in the air over Mr Burns being unable to attend, I personally felt thrilled to have the opportunity to hear Mr Duncan speak. He was the driving force behind The National Parks having been the one to suggest the idea in the first place, as well as being a strong voice in the inclusion of Winter in Yellowstone into the new Ken Burns American Journey's programs with Tauck. He spoke so passionately about the motivation for both his love of the National Parks and his desire to create these films with Ken that it seemed as though he was truly the most fitting presenter for the evening. Through his sincere storytelling and raw emotion (he noted that Ken compares him to Yellowstone: waterworks), he brought tears to my eyes on several occasions as the realization set in and dug a bit deeper each time that he was speaking about not only the amazing idea that is the National Parks, but also of the location that begin it all and that I have the enormous pleasure of calling my home.

 Amazingly though, the evening did not end there. Following the presentation and a wonderful dinner filled with exceptional company and good spirit, Dayton invited us (the Tauck staff, myself and any guests wishing to make the venture) to join him and Gerard for a moonlit viewing of Old Faithful....if we were lucky enough with timing, that is! With the VC being closed for the evening, they had done the "rough math" of when we "may" expect the next eruption and we settled on a meeting time in the hotel lobby of 9:50pm. As went the rest of the evening, time was on our side. Our group of approximately 20-25 people was taking the last few steps along the stretch of boardwalk separating the VC from the geyser when Old Faithful began it's show. Granted, I lived at Old Faithful for 5 seasons and have seen it many times, but this was different. It was the night after a full moon, crystal clear and amazingly cold (about -10 when we left the hotel....I was in a full snowmobile suit plus a down coat!) and I was surrounded by a group who 90% of them had never had anything close to this experience before. That can make even a veteran feel renewed in their surroundings. After the eruption, we took a few minutes to do what Gerard spoke of so often - be quite and enjoy the silence. Once we had settled into our enjoyment of our surroundings, he graced us with the telling of the stories behind the constellations we could see, a Native American prayer and a song for those who not be with us that night. To top of an already beautiful experience, he then circled us up for the "friendship dance" - a bit of easier two step while holding hands and moving to the beat of his songs. This was not all seriousness though, he definitely had us in stitches with a few outlandishly funny verses here and there! And that set us up for our grand finale - some hilarious attempts at ice skating on the neon blue ringed "pond" that is the Old Faithful ice skating rink. We definitely ended the night with laughter, camaraderie, insight and an overwhelming awe and thankfulness for where we were and who we were with.

 Even after all of the years I have lived here, I am so thankful to know that I can still feel as though I am seeing it for the first time.

Going to the Dogs

Harlo - AKA Muffin

In the world of ice breakers, "Are you a dog or cat person?" ranks right up there in with "Pop or Soda?" in getting a quick glimpse into the personality or background of a new friend or acquaintance. Me, I've always been a cat person. Not really for any reason pertaining to their specific attributes and differences, but because that's just what our whole family was. Again though, that didn't even pertain to the animal types themselves, but we lived in a city, had no yard and were very busy people. I think deep down my younger brother and I really did always want a dog, but were always thwarted(quickly!) by that standard parental threat of being responsible for taking care of said dog.

Me & my hiking buddy, Buckeye

Well folks, the times they are a-changin. In the past 7 years of living in Steamboat Springs and Gardiner - on many days one could easily draw the not-so-far fetched conclusion that there may be more dogs in residence than humans - I have begun to change my ways. No need for my little Harlo muffin to worry, I still love her dearly, but one of these days she may just have to share her space with a canine companion.

Tater - AKA Sausage Dog

I have many, many friends who have dogs and have blessed me with their acquaintance....and some have even *gasp* entrusted me with their care for extended periods of time. At first I just did what I was told - food, water, potty outings, walks or runs in the yard, and maybe a little snuggle in the evening for those allowed on the furniture. Nowadays though, they are earning their place in my heart as man's best friend.

Why the sudden change? Maybe I'm growing up a little bit, heaven forbid. The idea of taking care of something more complicated and time consuming than a cat is not nearly the dreadful weight that it once was. The idea of a companion that is loyal even when it doesn't want something (hint, hint Harlo - you should be nice even when you don't want me to pet you!) is a nice thought, especially when living alone(which I don't know, but I'm sure I will at some point in time....). I just may be responsible enough to keep something alive and thriving these days. Well, at least in the fauna department - me and flora may never have a good relationship.....

Fuzzy phone pics! Yep, there are 4 of them in there somewhere :)

Of course while the idea that I could have a pet because I've grown and matured is a nice one, I still prefer the REAL perks.....Dinner dates with no cooking or dishes involved. No need to rinse dishes when there are any. A nice extra blanket on a cold day. Far less expensive bribes and apologies. No talking back when you just need to vent, and no need to add the disclaimer of "please don't repeat this". No need to make plans to go hiking, just open the car door and you have a hiking buddy.

I think I like Option #2. I do live in Neverland, after all......

More Weekend Wanderings!




Jefferson River Valley from the trail to the cavern entrance

I'm being bad and throwing out more wanderings instead of being more creative, but it was such a fun wandering this weekend that I can't resist!



The adventures this weekend took me and my friends Laney, Lisa and Chase to Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, near Three Forks, MT. In the many years, off and on, that I have lived in this area, it is one of those places that I say "Oh, I really want to go there sometime" every time I drive by the exit sign for it on I-90, but then promptly forget it exists until the next time I drive by the sign. Well, not anymore!

While located near an area passed through by Lewis and Clark, they did not actually discover the caverns, or have any idea they were there...Montana just really loves naming things after them. They were actually discovered by two hunters in the late 1800s who noticed a bare area on the hillside during a February hunt. Upon further exploration(aka, dropping rocks in the hole and not hearing them hit bottom) they decided to come back later when it might be a little safer than mid-February in Montana. It took 6 years, but one of them did return and begin to explore in 1898. Sometime later, a successful prospector took over and began offering tours, utilizing a man-made entrance since the original discovery hole was more overhead to the cavern and descended into a rather large pit within the cavern. To give his tours, he created a walkway throughout with 2000 wooden steps and a 90 foot spiral staircase that often swayed as much as 2 feet from side to side.  

Lisa, me and Laney at the cavern entrance

Eventually the railroad discovered that they actually owned the rights to the land and claimed it, only to turn it over to the federal government in 1908. It was designated a National Monument and then locked up so people could not get in. The prospector, Dan Morrison, deciding that he didn't want to play by those rules, cut the lock, replaced it with his own, and continued his tours. Morrison and the federal government play this back and forth game until Morrison's death in 1932.

Around that point, the newly formed(1929) Montana State Parks system came into play, as they were then 3 years old but still did not have any park sites. With the help of the Civilian Conservation Corp, the rickety spiral staircase and wooden steps(wood in a moist cave does not exactly equal a good pairing) were removed and replaced by asphalt, some areas widened for better access, such as the entrance, and a new section of the cavern was discovered and opened to the public. After the discovery of this new section, an exit tunnel was also created so that visitors no longer had to retrace their steps back to the top of the cavern to get out.





Stalactites on the cavern wall


There are several areas to the cave, both large and small, and you actually spiral down throughout the cavern as you decend with each of the large rooms 100-200 feet below each other. They have intriguing names such as the Cathedral room(named for it's shape), the Sample room(named because of the large quantities of "samples" that Dan Morrison encouraged his guests to break off and take home with them to show their friends) and the Poison room(named for the eerie, venomous colors).

Crystal Pool(it's back there, I promise!)



One mile above sea level



Another neat concept we learned about was the way the cave can change your perception. In the Poison room, our guide pointed out a tall, narrow feature that appeared to be about 20-25 feet away and maybe 2 feet tall, which was actually 62 feet away from us and 6 feet tall....I am still baffled that the little white "stick" she pointed out was actually almost a full foot taller than me! The other was the idea, so kindly labeled for us on the stairs, of being at the one mile above sea level point while underground. That's a fun way to mess with one's mind a little bit!



One of the great illusionary examples

  

Poison Room - 6 foot tall feature is the small white line in the upper left



Weekend Wanderings

A few weeks ago I discovered an iPhone app called Trover that kind of reminds me a "photo" Twitter. You sign in, post photos of your "discoveries"(anything cool or interesting that you'd like to share) and it posts in a running feed. You map and name the location, as well as provide a brief description of why the discovery is "cool", for each photo, which allows other users to see where you took the photo and what it is. This also allows you to seach Discoveries by what is nearby - either nearby to you, or to another discovery you found interesting. This little app has led me to a new goal of the summer(since I have failed miserably at many of my 2011 goals and challenges so far, lol!). Enter, the Weekend Wanderings of Summer 2011.

I have lived in this area off and on since 2002, and thought that I knew it pretty well and had done a good many things. Definitely not the case, as Trover has taught me in the past few weeks! So far, I have discovered enough new places to see and things to do that, combined with my other already set plans this summer, may definitely be enough to leave not a free weekend to be found!

These first photos are the beginnng of the Weekend Wanderings, though not to new places....



Grand Tetons behind (still frozen) Jackson Lake - Grand Teton National Park May 2011

The bottom of Colter Pass as a storm rolls in - Chief Joseph Highway, Wyoming - May 2011



Buffalo Bill's Historic Irma Hotel - Cody, Wyoming - May 2011



Pioneer School near the Wyoming-Montana border on Hwy 120 - This was a new discovery that I just saw a small sign for on the side of the highway! May 2011

The first of the new explorations, less than 2 hours from my house along a very scenic drive!
Natural Bridge Falls - Gallatin National Forest, Montana - June 2011

The weekend wandering to Natural Bridge falls also included the fun of a borrowed pup(a friend was out of town so pupsitting was also involved!) as wel as a fabulous dinner at the Grand Hotel in Big Timber, MT - was expecting to grab so bar grub on the way home and ended up with an AMAZING meal!!

Next weekend, Lewis and Clark Caverns :)

For 'Tis Life - Shiny Happy Photos

As happens in life, just by nature of it being the unpredictable, uncontrollable, baffling roller coaster that it is, I've been feeling a little funky lately. For the entirely self serving purpose of having to look at them and hopefully brighten my world for a fleeting moment, it's about time to impart some happy-thought inspiring photos out to the rest of the world....

March 2011 - Funny, I know. But my car's back door hasn't opened in over a year, and I fixed it myself the other day....quite a happy moment!

May 2007 - My best friend's dog, Arthur, making himself comfy in the back of my car during his very first Yellowstone visit. Other than a brief stop to try and lick some sticky gunk off the Gardiner bridge, he was very well behaved for a puppy on a road trip!

Winter 2010/11 - Photo courtesy of Beth Pratt - Mama Bison and a late-born baby(aka lil red dog...we don't usually see lil guys this red when the snow is around!)

September 2002 - Iris and Colonnade Falls in the Bechler region of the Yellowstone backcountry. My first backpacking trip, almost 10 years ago.

December 2010 - My best friend in world, Jayne Rockford Pond, with her husband Alex and their one year old daughter Reesa. Family ski day in Steamboat Springs! I miss that girl an awful lot....

July 2010 - One of my nearest and dearest, Laney, fishing on Yellowstone Lake on her wedding day

May 2007 - Me on the widow's walk of the Old Faithful Inn...one of my favorite places in the world

May 2004 - My mom and me at an overlook for the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River. Mom's first trip to Yellowstone, back when I was 21 years old.

November 2008 - My little brother and me(yes, I'm happier than I look....Dad has such great timing for catching terrible faces with the camera!). This was my brother's first visit to Colorado, and the first time I'd seen him in almost 5 years. 

November 2010 - The epic snowstorm that hit Gardiner, MT. This is only a happy picture because it looks pretty, and I got to drive away and leave on vacation about 2 hours later.

November 2010 - Balanced Rock in Arches National Park. Not only is this just cool to look at, but Arches is also one of my favorite National Parks. I also get warm fuzzies because Edward Abbey's trailer house was near here during the time he wrote of in Desert Solitaire, one of my all time favorite books

November 2010 - The wonderful man I love, playing in slot canyons in Arches National Park

October 2008 - My Dad and me on the Fish Creek Falls bridge, Steamboat Springs, Colorado

May 2007 - Arthur and me at the South Entrance to Yellowstone. I have a thing for signs when I visit places, and this is by far my favorite and most photographed....I have no idea why :o)

Summer 2010 - Me, Laney and Tyrene, another of my nearest and dearest. I have known Ty almost my entire duration of time in Yellowstone, and she is a wonderful, kindred, native Oregonian, Portlandian and Oregon Ducks football fan to have around. Plus, she's the reason I even know Laney. I love these girls!